Trains Of The Orient

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This travel documentary captures the view one would have while riding The Venice Simplon Orient Express. Made famous in the work of Agatha Christie, the train is known throughout the world for its gorgeous amenities and the breathtaking views it provides during its run.

By Paul Sussman for CNN

The Orient Express is the last word in luxury train travel
• Savoring Madeleine
• A taste of Utopia
• The crystal cage
• Phantom of the road
• Orient-Express
• Mark Smith
• The Railway Magazine

LONDON, England (CNN) -- It may not be the longest train journey in the world, a record currently held by the 9,288.2 km (5,787 miles) Trans-Siberian Railway.

Nor is it the most strikingly scenic: The Glacier Express in Switzerland, and Vietnam's Reunification Express both offer views -- of mountains and jungle respectively -- that make most other train routes look positively mundane.

Nor is it even the world's most exclusive rail experience -- with a maximum of 22 passengers per trip, touring France in the über-chic Palladium probably deserves that title.

For sheer luxury, character, panache and historical resonance, however, no train journey on earth can quite match a trip aboard the legendary Orient Express, a locomotive that justifiably bears the nickname 'King of Trains.'

'It is quite simply the ultimate luxury train experience,' says UK rail expert Mark Smith.

'It is that unique combination of classic hotel standards on board a beautifully restored vintage train.

'Traveling on it is unforgettable, a rail-lover's dream. It totally lives up to all your expectations.'

Nick Pigott, editor of Railway Magazine, agrees.

'It has a cachet attached to it,' he explains, 'A sense of history and romance that still lingers even in this cynical day and age.

'Its name has become a byword for luxury and intrigue and adventure.'

Unique throwback

The Venice Simplon Orient Express (VSOE) to give it its full title is, confusingly, not the only train to be called 'Orient Express.'

The train passes through some of Europe's most beautiful scenery

There is also a standard daily 'Orient Express' rail service between Paris and Vienna; A 'Nostalgic Orient Express' running sporadically from Zurich to Istanbul and Athens; and luxury 'Orient Express' trains in, respectively, America and China.

Orient-express route 2019

Nor, strictly, is the VSOE the direct descendant of the very first 'Express d'Orient' that left Paris on October 4, 1883 bound for Istanbul.

That honor goes to the aforementioned standard service which, although it comprises modern rolling stock and now only travels as far as Vienna, nonetheless boasts an unbroken line of timetable lineage all the way back to that original 19th century locomotive.

If it lacks an absolutely perfect historical pedigree, however, and has to share its name with several other services, the VSOE is nonetheless, in character at least, unarguably the true heir to the heyday of luxury train travel, a unique throwback to a lost age of opulent sleeping compartments, cordon bleu dining cars, immaculately uniformed staff and titled clientele.

A private venture owned and operated by Orient-Express Hotels, Trains and Cruises, the VSOE has been running once weekly from London to Venice and back since 1982 (the original luxury Orient Express service petered out in the 1960s).

The journey actually involves two separate trains, each made up of restored vintage carriages from the 1920s and 1930s.

The first leg takes passengers from London's Victoria Station to Folkestone aboard a train made up of traditional British Pullman carriages.

At Folkestone they transfer through the Channel Tunnel on a luxury motor coach before boarding the second train -- the VSOE proper -- which carries them through France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria and north-east Italy before terminating in Venice, a total distance of 1,715 km (1,066 miles).

Jeans not allowed

Passengers travel and sleep in beautifully restored vintage carriages

During the 31-hour journey -- which includes one night on board the train -- passengers have a chance to experience the full opulence and magic of early 20th century first-class rail travel.

Customers are expected to dress elegantly -- jeans and trainers not allowed -- and are tended by over 40 staff, including chefs, waiters and compartment stewards.

'It is a wonderful, relaxing, romantic experience,' says Mark Smith. 'So much so that my wife and I actually got engaged on board.

'The service, food and atmosphere are everything you could possibly want. Everyone dresses in dinner suits for the evening meal, you go to bed in perfectly restored 1929 Wagons-Lits sleeping cars, and when you wake up in the morning you have coffee and croissants delivered to your apartment while you sit gazing at spectacular Alpine views out of the window.

'It is London to Venice by train in the style to which I would like to become accustomed.'

Not surprisingly, this sort of luxury doesn't come cheaply, with a one-way trip costing £1,390 ($2,440) per person.

According to Nick Pigott, however, the expense only adds to the magic of the journey.

'It maintains the exclusivity of the whole thing,' he explains. 'It means that those who can afford it are doing something that very few people will get a chance to experience.'

Royalty and spies

Just as today there are a number of trains that style themselves 'Orient Express,' historically there was never a single locomotive that actually bore the name.

'It was always a service, an abstract idea rather than a particular set of rolling-stock,' explains Mark Smith.

'In the same way that, for example, you wouldn't have a single unique plane flying what in the timetable appears as BA Flight 123 from London to New York, so the Orient Express service involved many different trains.'

That service was initiated by Belgian Georges Nagelmackers, founder of the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits.

A poster from the heyday of the Orient Express service

His first 'Express d'Orient' left the Gare de Strasbourg in Paris on October 4, 1883, traveling as far as Giurgiu in Romania where passengers were taken across the Danube by ferry, carried onwards to the Black Sea aboard another train before completing the journey to Constantinople (as Istanbul was then known) by ship.

Within six years trains were running direct to Constantinople via Vienna, Budapest, Belgrade and Sofia, while the completion of the Simplon tunnel beneath the Alps in 1906 led to the opening of a second, southerly route via Lausanne, Milan, Venice and Trieste -- locomotives going this way were styled the 'Simplon Orient Express.'

The next 30 years comprised the heyday of the service, when its trains were used by everyone from royalty to spies, diplomats to millionaire businessmen, and it became immortalized in such literary works as Graham Greene's Stamboul Train (1932) and Agatha Christie's Murder on the Orient Express (1934). The latter, incidentally, was originally titled Murder on the Calais Coach.

The Second World War signaled the beginning of the end for this type of luxury train travel, however, and although various Orient Express services continued in the post-war era they lacked the majesty and mystique of those pre-war journeys.

The luxury sleeper service gradually slipped out of use, and it was only with the inauguration of the VSOE in 1982 -- brainchild of businessman and train lover James Sherwood -- that Europe once again boasted a train experience fit for a king.

Since then the VSOE -- which only runs between March and November -- has carried over 350,000 passengers and covered more than four million kilometers of track. Nelson Mandela, Roman Polanski, Paul Newman and Liza Minelli are just a few of the famous names to have sampled its unique brand of rail travel.

As British journalist Maggie O'Sullivan put it: 'It may not go to the Orient or be an express, but this is the last word in luxury train travel.'

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1888 poster for the Orient Express

Luxury trains are designed to offer a very comfortable ride and evoke an association with history and heritage. Operating in several countries, they are a premium travel option. Although some luxury trains promote tourism in destinations across a continent, others (such as the Maharajas' Express) take passengers on a long, leisurely ride through a single country.

Luxury train travel has become popular, and its proponents cite several advantages over air travel. Although air travel can be monotonous, passengers on a luxury train can see the local environment, social and economic conditions, and a myriad of colors during their travels. Unlike airplanes, luxury trains are spacious and have restaurants and bars, comfortable sleeping and seating areas and bathrooms.

History[edit]

Illustration from 1885 Chicago & Alton Railroad timetable

Before sleeping and dining cars, long-distance train travel was an uncomfortable experience. George Pullman's first sleeping car, the Pioneer, was introduced in 1865; it was followed two years later by 'hotel cars'.[1] The Pioneer was the first railway carriage with dining and sleeping areas,[2] and the Pullman Car Company was founded in 1880.[1]

Georges Nagelmackers founded the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits, creator of the Orient Express. Inspired by Pullman trains in the United States, Nagelmackers returned to Europe and built a fleet of over 30 luxury trains which traveled to several European destinations. He is credited with beginning the age of luxury trains and grand hotels.[citation needed]

The best-known luxury train was the Orient Express, the setting of Agatha Christie's Murder on the Orient Express. Europe's first luxury train, it began its maiden journey across Europe on 5 June 1883 from Paris' Gare de l'Est. Although the original Orient Express ceased operations in 2009, private operators and public-private joint ventures provide luxury train travel in several countries.[citation needed]

Belmond trains[edit]

Venice-Simplon Orient Express in Switzerland
Class 67, no. 67006 Royal Sovereign hauling the Northern Belle
Orient
Bangkok-bound Eastern and Oriental Express train at the Kuala Lumpur railway station

According to Belmond[3] (formerly known as Orient Express Hotels), the company operates the highest number of luxury train tours in the world. With service in Europe, Asia and South America, Belmond is the only private luxury tour provider (with the exception of Russia's Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express) to offer continental or intercontinental service.[4]

The Venice-Simplon Orient Express, with service from London to Venice, was voted the top luxury train in the world in 2009.[5]The Royal Scotsman offers service across Scotland and, occasionally, the rest of Britain. The Belmond Grand Hibernian began operations in Ireland on 30 August 2016.

The Eastern and Oriental Express has service from Bangkok to Singapore (via Kuala Lumpur) and to Vientiane. Covering over 2,000 kilometres (1,200 mi)[6] of peninsular Southeast Asia, its two-day journey has frequent stops at scenic locations.[7]

United Kingdom[edit]

Former Brighton Belle Pullman carriage at London Victoria, now part of the Venice-Simplon Orient Express fleet

British Pullman cars were used on the Brighton Belle out of London Victoria station.[8]

Northern Belle[edit]

Northern Belle is a privately owned luxury train introduced in 2000. It consists primarily of British Rail Mark 2 coach stock, refurbished internally and painted externally to resemble the Brighton Belle's British Pullman coaches. Buffet cars are British Rail Mark 1 coaches. Although the train primarily operates in Northern England and Scotland, it also serves London and Bristol. The train has two British Rail Mark 3 sleeper coaches for its crew.[9] It departs from a number of northern cities, including Liverpool, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Manchester. The Northern Belle has six dining cars named after historic British houses.[10]

Spain[edit]

Spain's state-owned network of luxury trains is operated by Renfe Operadora and runs from March to October on scheduled and charter trips. The main routes cross northern Spain and Andalusia, with special tours throughout the peninsula.

Al Ándalus[edit]

The Al Ándalus' luxury cars were built in France for use by members of the British monarchy when they travelled between Calais and the French Riviera. The main route takes passengers from Seville to Cádiz, Jerez de la Frontera, Ronda, Granada, Úbeda, Baeza, Linares, Córdoba, Andalusia and back to Seville.

El Transcantábrico[edit]

The oldest tourist train in Spain (operating since 1983), the El Transcantábrico has original 1923 Pullman coaches.[11] There are two routes: the Gran Lujo between San Sebastián and Santiago de Compostela, and the Clasico between León and Santiago de Compostela via Bilbao.

El Expreso de la Robla[edit]

The common areas of El Expreso de La Robla are three air-conditioned coaches with bar service. The coaches, designed for conferences, talks, courses and meetings, have all required technological facilities. All interior areas of the train are connected, enabling passengers to move freely throughout.

Russia[edit]

Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express[edit]

The Golden Eagle Trans-Siberian Express, begun in April 2007, takes passengers on a 6,000-mile (9,656 km) trip (the world's longest train journey)[4] across two continents and eight time zones. The Golden Eagle follows the Trans-Siberian Railway, which connects Moscow and European Russia with the Russian Far East, Mongolia, China and the East Sea(Sea of Japan).

Canada[edit]

Rocky Mountaineer[edit]

Between Banff, Alberta and an overnight stop in Kamloops

Rocky Mountaineer is a Canadian company which operates trains touring the Canadian Rockies and the northwestern U.S. Via Rail sold off its Rockies by Daylight scenic train to Rocky Mountaineer Vacations (which became Rocky Mountaineer) in 1990. Rocky Mountaineer operates four routes.[12][13]

Royal Canadian Pacific[edit]

The Royal Canadian Pacific in North Dakota in 2012

The Royal Canadian Pacific is a luxury overnight passenger train based in Calgary. The train makes charter runs along Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) tracks in summer and fall, taking passengers into the Rocky Mountains of Alberta and British Columbia. A typical six-day, five-night round trip runs through the Columbia River valley and Crowsnest Pass. The train halts at night to enable passengers to enjoy all the scenery. It consists of up to ten CPR luxury passenger cars (built between 1916 and 1931), two fully restored 1950s locomotives[14] and a booster unit. The CPR also owns a modern diesel GP38-2 locomotive, numbered 3084,[15] for backup use.

Japan[edit]

Seven Stars in Kyushu[16] is a deluxe sleeping-car excursion train which has toured the island of Kyushu since October 2013. Its name derives from Kyushu's seven prefectures and the train's seven cars.[17] The train has a piano, bar, suites, a mini-kitchen, a crew room, shower rooms and toilets. It has two- and four-day round trips, departing from Hakata Station. The two-day tour visits Nagasaki, Aso and Yufuin, and the four-day tour visits Yufuin, Miyazaki, Miyakonojō, Hayato, Kagoshima-Chuo, Kagoshima, Aso and Bungo-Mori.

India[edit]

Luxury trains in India include the Palace on Wheels, Deccan Odyssey and Golden Chariot. Two destinations have been added to Royal Rajasthan on Wheels: Khajuraho and Varanasi.[18] The 22-coach train can carry 82 passengers and has 13 compartments, two lounges, a spa and a fitness center.[19] The Maharajas' Express is owned and operated by Indian Railways Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC).[20]

South Africa[edit]

The Blue Train, covering about 1,600 kilometres (990 mi) between Pretoria and Cape Town, is South Africa's oldest and most well-known luxury train service. Rovos Rail started its Pride of Africa service in April 1989, offering pan-African luxury-train journeys spanning seven African countries by rail, air and water.[21]

Australia[edit]

The Ghan, a luxury train, runs 2,979 kilometres (1,851 miles) through the heart of the Australian continent from Darwin in the north to Adelaide in the south.[22] The Indian Pacific is a long-distance train connecting Sydney on the east coast, Australia's largest city, with Perth on the west coast.[23]

Image gallery[edit]

  • Dining car on Seven Stars in Kyushu

  • Rovos Rail deluxe suite

  • Dining car on the Blue Train

  • The Ghan approaching Alice Springs, 5 July 2015

See also[edit]

Wikivoyage has a travel guide for tourist trains.

References[edit]

  1. ^ abRailroad CollectionsArchived 2010-07-19 at the Wayback Machine
  2. ^Thinkquest LibraryArchived 2012-07-31 at the Wayback Machine, History of Luxury Trains
  3. ^'Orient-Express'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  4. ^ abLambert, Anthony (28 March 2008). 'On track for a classic train journey'. The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 31 March 2008. Retrieved 20 March 2018.
  5. ^'Readers' Travel Awards 2009'. Archived from the original on 20 July 2013. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  6. ^'Official Website of Tourism Malaysia - Experience the Best Time of You…'. archive.is. 6 August 2012. Archived from the original on 6 August 2012.
  7. ^'Orient-Express'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  8. ^'Orient-Express'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  9. ^[1][dead link]
  10. ^'Orient-Express'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  11. ^Luxury Tourist Trains, Official Website of Luxury Tourist Trains Spain
  12. ^'Rocky Mountaineer'. Archived from the original on 6 October 2011. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  13. ^Marks, By Laurence. 'Canada's Rocky Mountaineer train ride'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  14. ^'A luxury rail tour with Royal Canadian Pacific brings the history of the railroad in Canada to life'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  15. ^'CP 3084'. Archived from the original on 19 April 2016. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  16. ^'Cruise Train Seven Stars in Kyushu Japan's first cruise train, the luxurious 'Seven Stars in Kyushu''. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  17. ^'Concept'. Seven Stars in Kyushu. Japan: Kyushu Railway Company. 2012. Archived from the original on 31 May 2012. Retrieved 29 May 2012.
  18. ^'Super luxury train 'Royal Rajasthan on Wheels' flagged off from New Delhi – Economic Times'. Economictimes.indiatimes.com. 5 September 2010. Retrieved 26 March 2013.
  19. ^'RRoW begins journey on Sunday'. The Times of India. 3 September 2010. Retrieved 26 March 2013.
  20. ^Journeys by Rail. 'India's Maharajas' Express rail journey'. Telegraph. Retrieved 26 March 2013.
  21. ^Rovos Rail: Pride of Africa (Rovos Rail website)
  22. ^'Earth Times: news/348189,paris-hilton-upset-at-japan-ban-special-way-traverse-australia.html'. Retrieved 2 April 2017.
  23. ^Administrator, Default. 'Sydney to Perth'. www.greatsouthernrail.com.au. Archived from the original on 2017-09-20. Retrieved 2017-09-28.
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